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Paris
Fall 2013 will not be a season for the faint of heart.
The fifties-era shapes—with full coats and circle skirts swirling, as at Rochas and Céline—are often dramatic. Dolman sleeves and billowing backs represent a sea change from the high, tight armholes and slim silhouettes that have been dominating fashion. The new voluminous shape appeared in so many collections, from New York to Milan and Paris, that it became a signature of the season.
Some other hallmarks of the season: Both lug-sole shoes and dainty heels are in vogue. The "It" bag continues to be structured.
That's not to say there aren't rebels. Ricardo Tisci, at Givenchy, had everyone swooning over his fluid gypsy skirts, chunky sweaters, sweatshirts and hippy-dippy booties. These clothes had an ease of wearing that suggests a hit collection.
At Saint Laurent, Hedi Slimane went skinny and rock-n-roll with baby-doll dresses and leather miniskirts. You had to look closely to see clothes that would please the label's long-term clients, such as tailored jackets and a cropped crystal-studded shrug. The showy Saint Laurent rock-n-doll looks should draw the attention of Alexander Wang's cool-kid fans—the ones who party all night, or want to look like they do.
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Mr. Wang is still showing his Alexander Wang label in New York, but the spotlight was on his new job as Balenciaga's designer. His first collection there aimed to return the ultramodern Parisian label to its origins. Mr. Wang immersed himself in the house's archives, working with classic Balenciaga shapes. Next season, says spokesman Lionel Vermeil, another aspect of Balenciaga's history—innovative fabrics—will emerge.
Another surprise awaits designer clients: They should brace for fashion's hit to their bank accounts. After several years of downward pressure, prices of luxury fashions are steeply on the rise.
"When did the price of pants [rise to] $1,000?" Nancy Pearlstein, owner of Georgetown's Relish boutique, asked after touring Paris showrooms this week. "Just a couple of years ago, the high was $795."
